Dungeons and Dragons Online Wizard Race Guide

In Dungeons and Dragons Online a wizard can be very fun to play if you know how to properly utilize their skills and abilities. They have a large variety of spells that you can choose from and it must be chosen effectively. They have the advantage of range but their most fatal flaw is their defense and close combat. They lack the armors that a warrior or tank type can wear. Unlike most massive multiplayer online games, the wizard is more than just a high burst damage class. To begin, let’s figure which race would be your choice.

In DDO, the humans gain an extra Feat at first level which is useful to all classes. The extra feat can be used on toughness for extra hit points or dodge. A wizard class needs a lot of boost on survivability. Dwarves start with +2 to constitution and a -2 to Charisma. Con bonus gives you extra HP and adds to concentration skill which will help a wizard cast while being attacked. The Cha penalty will not hurt too much on a wizard class. Dwarfs also get a +4 bonus to Balance skill. A dwarf is ideal for pleasure and roleplay but not for stat wise. Elves begin with +2 Dexterity and -2 to Constitution. A well played wizard should not get hit much in melee combat so the extra the Dex will be very handy when it comes to avoiding traps and spell effects. Another defensive stat. Elves also has a weapon proficiency as well as immunity to Sleep and resistance to spells such as Suggestion and Hold Person. Elf is a very strong choice for a wizard class. Halflings get a +2 to Dexterity and a -2 to Strength. The Str stat does absolutely nothing for the wizard class. They also receive a +1 to AC as well as a stealth bonus. Halflings are also a good choice as they are a sneaky, small and good for party support. Warforged gets a +2 bonus to Constitution and -2 to both Wisdom and Charisma. Losing on Wisdom would hurt the most. Wisdom reduces the ability to shrug off many enchantments as well as their general resistance to many spells. A Warforged wizard gets Repair spells which you can use to act as your own cleric and damage dealer. Warforged wizards are not exactly the best class but can also have their benefits, especially when it comes to solo play.

Versatility and knowledge are a wizard’s strong points. Play with your strengths and weakness and everything about your spells function in order to master a wizards true potential. You need to be able to understand how certain spells may have different effects on different type of monsters, learn how to kite, how much damage you deal to each mob and how many nukes it will take to kill that specific mob before it reaches you into close melee combat. A well built and well played wizard and be the difference between victory and victory against an overwhelming battle in DDO.

If you’re ever in a theater in Harlem and some wild-eyed giant in flashy clothes starts running his mouth off to a soft spoken, bruce lee dressed little guy… my advice is not to rush the giant (he will kill you) (and you will’ve deserved it). Just sit back and watch because this is: THE LAST DRAGON Anyone else see this when it was in theaters? Personally, I suspect this trailer gives away too much, but what can you do?

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Newbie’S Guide To Heating For Bearded Dragons

You need to provide your bearded dragon with external heat due to the fact that he’s cold-blooded. If he can’t properly regulate his body temperature, he will be unable to fend off diseases and digest food properly. There are a few things you need to know about providing bearded dragon heating. This article will tell you everything you need to know.

You can’t have the temperature the same throughout the whole terrarium. You have to set up a temperature gradient. The warmer sides needs to be anywhere from the mid 80s to the mid 90s. The cooler side should be between the mid 70s and mid 80s.

Bearded dragons love to bask in the sun in the morning to heat themselves up. Therefore, it’s important that you setup a basking area. If you have an adult, this area should have a temperature between 100 and 105 degrees Fahrenheit. If you have a juvenile, you can have the maximum temperature up to 110 degrees.

Obviously in the wild, the temperature drops whenever the sun goes down. Therefore, the nighttime temperature in the cage needs to be cooler than the daytime temp. It should ideally be in the low 70s. One of the best options is to use a ceramic heat bulb to provide the necessary heat at night. Unlike other bulbs, it won’t emit much light while producing heat.

It’s very important that you monitor the temperature in the cage. You don’t want your bearded dragon to be too cold or too hot. You should invest in a few quality thermometers. Place the thermometers as close to the area that you wish to monitor. If it’s too far apart, you will probably get an inaccurate reading.

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Newbie’S Guide To Feeding Bearded Dragons

Your bearded dragon needs a proper diet to stay healthy. He is omnivorous which means he eats fruits, vegetables, as well as insects. This article will tell you everything you need to know about feeding bearded dragons.

Protein

If you have a baby or juvenile dragon, it’s important that you provide plenty of protein in his diet. The extra protein is needed to help bones and tissues grow. Therefore, make sure you feed babies and juveniles plenty of insects in addition to vegetables. Adult dragons should have less insects and plenty of fruits and vegetables.

Insects

There are a variety of insects that you can feed your bearded dragon. They include crickets, earthworms, cockroaches, wax worms, and silk worms. It’s best not to feed wax worms too often because they’re very high in fat. Also, silkworms have hard exoskeletons, so you shouldn’t try to feed them to younger lizards.

The insects should never be larger than the width between your dragon’s eyes. If the insect is too big, it could cause a blockage, seizure, or malnourishment. You can feed as many insects as he can eat in 15 minutes. Make sure that you don’t leave any uneaten insects inside the enclosure.

Vegetables

You should feed fresh vegetables daily. Some of the most popular choices include collard greens, dandelion greens, cabbage, cucumber, and peas. You can also feed your bearded dragon carrots, squash, green beans, and broccoli. Make sure you don’t get feed iceberg lettuce too often. He can easily become hooked and it provides no nutritional benefits.

Fruits

It’s also important to feed bearded dragon’s fruits on a daily basis. Strawberries, mango, melon, apples, grapes, and pears are all good choices. Other suitable fruits include raspberries, peaches, and cantaloupe. Make sure that you don’t feed your dragon lemons, oranges, or other acidic fruits.

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Owner’s Guide to Bearded Dragon Brumation

Bearded dragon brumation is a period of hibernation that occurs during the winter months. Many new owners mistakenly think their dragon is sick when this happens. It’s also common for some dragons not to brumate at all. Either way, there are a few things you should know just in case. This article will discuss some of these things.

Light

As mentioned previously, these lizards brumate during the winter months. Therefore, you should try to imitate the natural light cycle. Slowly reduce the amount of light you provide your dragon until it’s down to eight or ten hours a day. This will help ease him into the brumation period. After winter has passed, you should gradually increase the light back up to 14 hours a day.

Heat

With winter comes less heat. Therefore, you also need to gradually decrease the temperature. In the daytime, it should be between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Although dragons can be kept in temperatures in the 50s, it’s best that you don’t let the temperature drop below 60 degrees at night. After winter, slowly increase the temperature back to normal.

Burrowing

It’s common for dragons to bury themselves during this period. Therefore, you should be a good owner and provide an area in the vivarium for him to burrow. One of the best materials to use for this area is aspen.

Activity

You should already know by now that all dragons don’t brumate. Even when they do, they sometimes get up and move around. If you’re dragon is active, you should give him a little bit of food. Just make sure that you don’t give him too much. It’s not good for a brumating dragon to have undigested food in his system.

Bearded Dragons Diseases And Ilnesses Guide

Bearded Dragons are extremely hardy lizards, when they are provided with the proper temperatures and lighting in their environment. However, they are also pets who do their best to hide their symptoms from us when they become ill, as do most other reptiles. This is no doubt an instinctual behavior, since a sick Beardie, in the wild, would probably not live for very long.

Since your Beardie can’t groan or complain about where it hurts, you must use your observation skills to determine when something is not right. There are times when a healthy Beardie will act differently, but these changes should be seen for what they are by the experienced veterinarian.

Because of this, you need to be very aware of what normal behavior is for each of your particular dragons, and what is not. An alert eye can generally spot a problem long before it becomes a major concern. Particular attention should be paid to each dragon’s eating habits, and the amounts that they usually eat, as well as what is the norm as far as how often they present with bowel movements, and what they usually look like, when they do. Attention should also be paid to the amount of urates (the white solid or powdery materials) that are passed within the bowel movements, as a change in this can be a sign of kidney problems.

If you purchased your dragons from a pet shop, unfortunately you may have gotten more than the one living thing that you paid for… there is a better than a 50% chance that your dragon may be carrying some type of intestinal parasite, particularly if they were being housed with other dragons, and the conditions that they were being kept in were not exactly as clean as you would have liked.

They may be infested with coccidia, roundworms, pinworms, hookworms, or numerous other pests. If you should buy from a reputable breeder, this is much less likely to be the case, but even then, it is possible.

For this reason, once you have had your dragon for two weeks, you should make it a point to have him or her seen by a reputable vet, who is well versed in the care of reptiles, and take in a stool sample for testing. Give your dragon at least two weeks to settle in, unless it is apparent that they are ill, as when they are stressed, their parasite count, particularly the coccidia count, may be higher than normal.

Diseases and Disorders

Normally, if you provide your dragon the standard habitat, food and care, you will have the healthiest bearded dragon on earth. But, from time to time your dragon could get sick. The most often diseases, beardies get are:

1. Mites
2. Terminal Ingestion
3. Thermal Burns
4. Calcium Deficiency
5. Impaction
6. Hypovitaminosis A
7. Respiratory Infections
8. Dehydration
9. Stomatitis
10. Internal Parasites
11. Coccidia
12. Other Parasites
13. Dystocia (Egg Binding)
14. MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease)
15. Skin Problems

Detailed information on every on each diseas and treating solutions, along with everything you need to know about bearded dragons, you can find in the new complete guide on Bearded Dragons at http://www.pets-lovers.com/bd/beardeddragons.htm

Basic Guide for Housing a Bearded Dragon

Bearded Dragons need a large enough habitat to allow for a variety of distances from the heat source. A glass aquarium is recommended for security, ease of maintenance, and pet viewing. To avoid the expense of multiple habitats as your pet grows to adulthood, consider using a partition that can be easily adjusted. This way, throughout the life of the pet, you can use a single large aquarium, 55-70 gallons.

The white melamine is a material that keeps the cage very bright which is important for stimulating a dragon’s appetite. The light (and the UVB) stays inside the cage rather than escaping through the glass sides of an aquarium. Glass fronts will allow the dragon to check out their world and interact with you.

Where to place the cage?

Find a place, on a stable stand or table, where you feel comfortable and where you can watch anytime your little fellow, against a wall. Try to house your dragon somewhere interesting for him or her, but away from high traffic areas and out of direct sunlight. Do not hide the cage away in a seldom frequented place. Bearded Dragons have a big curiosity. They like to be somewhere where they can watch anytime to their human fellow doing their funny things.

The cage need to be organized with a basking light at one end of the tank, another end should be kept as a cooling area; a hide area of branches and potted non-toxic plants, or a hide box in the tank is also necessary; a rock or log for the basking area. Try to improve the animal environment and remember that the more you do to arrange a Beardie’s environment to provide security, the quicker the animal will adjust to its new home and family. Animals that are housed correctly and stress free will remain healthy, eat well, be happier, remain active and alert.

The first days in his new habitat can cause a lot of stress to the Dragon, and because of this they could refuse to eat for some days. To help them accommodate you should:

- Use the first weeks to only watch the dragon and learn the behaviors and feeding habits. Read books on Beardies. Your children will want to play with their new friend. Do not allow anybody to pick up the dragon at this moment.

- For a while you can cover the cage with some milky white panes which won’t let the Dragon see to many things outside.

Housing Young Beardies

Babies and small juveniles can be temporally housed in a 10 – 20 gallon aquarium. Young Beardies less than 10 inches in length need to be housed in a 20 gal long aquarium. This will last them for a few months only though as they grow quickly. You can use Profile Extended Storage Bins. The milky white sides of the bins prevent the dragon from becoming terrified in new surroundings and not eating for the first few days, which can become a serious problem.

It is important to judge the correct size of the enclosure. While the dragon is small, it’s helpful to keep cage furniture to a minimum, so that they can find their food easily. Crickets can hide in deeply grooved logs or under the furniture making it difficult for a baby dragon to locate food. The dragon won’t find them, so will not be able to eat, and the crickets will come out at night and nibble on beardies, who sleep quite soundly, stressing them (this could be serious).

On the other hand, a tank that is too small won’t afford the proper temperature gradients the dragon requires.

As the dragon grows they will need to be moved to bigger cages. The dragon having a bigger size, a tank too small won’t afford the proper temperature gradients the dragon requires, the dragon can no longer get away from the heat and it can cook and die.

Housing Adult Bearded Dragons

Adult Dragons should be housed in nothing smaller than a 40gal breeder tank, but it is recommended that you house a single adult Beardie in a 55 to 60 gallon aquarium. Dragons need branches or rocks to climb on and a hiding place. Any cage furniture should be carefully secured so it can’t fall and injure the Beardie.

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A Practical Guide to Dragons

This lavishly illustrated guide showcases the wide array of fantastic dragons encountered on the world of Krynn. Sindri Suncatcher–wizard’s apprentice–opens up his personal notebooks to share his knowledge of these awe-inspiring creatures, from the life cycle of a kind copper dragon to the best way to counteract a red dragon’s fiery breath.

The perfect companion to the Dragonlance: The New Adventures series, this beautifully illustrated title introduces readers to the looks and h

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