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A Bearded Dragon’s Diet ? 7 Tips

Thursday, December 30th, 2010

A Bearded Dragon’s Diet ? 7 Tips

A Bearded Dragon’s Diet – 7 Tips

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Home Page > Home and Family > Pets > A Bearded Dragon’s Diet – 7 Tips

A Bearded Dragon’s Diet – 7 Tips

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Posted: Aug 15, 2009 |Comments: 0
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Before going out and buying a bearded dragon, you should do your research for what they like to eat and how their home should be set up.

I have had my bearded dragon now for almost 3 years and he is growing healthy and happy.

Here are 7 basics tips on what a bearded dragon should eat -

Bearded Dragons love crickets, but do not feed them only crickets. This is not good for the older dragons, but juvenile dragons is fine to feed only crickets.

When feeding them crickets it is vital that you gut-load the crickets. This helps your dragon to maintain a healthy diet. Also make sure that the crickets are about the same size as the width of little dragon’s head. The width of their head is the space between the eyes.

You should also consider getting some vitamin supplements to powder the crickets and the other foods you feed your dragon

Bearded Dragons will eat everything, just about, you give them. Learn the proper lettuce you feed them. DO NOT FEED them Iceberg lettuce! Stick to the Collard Greens, Mustard Greens, etc.

They also love meal worms and king worms but do not give these to them very often, it’s better to keep these on a weekly basis not a daily basis. Also one note to those of you who want to breed you dragons feeding both your males & females LIVE PINKIE MICE.

Bearded Dragons will almost always look and act hungry, Please Do Not over feed them! Set up a regular schedule to feed them once in the morning or evening. Stick to this schedule no matter what, it is better for you and your dragon

Besides just crickets and greens, Bearded Dragons need fruits, such as strawberries, mangoes, zucchini, squash, and carrots. Give your dragon a well balanced diet and both you and your dragon will live long and happy lives. ” till death do us part”

Keep in mind that knowing how to feed your bearded dragon is a good start in preparing to purchase a Bearded Dragon, but you must also learn how important their home setup is too. There is a lot to know about bearded dragons so please do your research.

Bearded Dragons are great first time pets for most kids over the age of about 10. They are docile and easy going pets, and they love human contact.

I hope this articles has educated you some on the diet needed for a Bearded Dragon.

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Laura Miller -
About the Author:

This website is very informative for all reptile lovers. You can learn a lot and purchase products for types of reptiles.

check it out today

http://raptortodd.com

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Article Tags:
bearded dragons, diet for bearded dragons, purchasing a bearded dragon, caring for a bearded dragon

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It is hard to imagine anywhere in the People’s Republic untouched by civil engineers, the levelers of history. But truly nowhere else in China has life remained perfectly intact – culturally and naturally – as on the Dragon’s Backbone in the rural villages of Longsheng county is southwest China.

While Guangxi Autonomous Region’s one-two punch of geological wonders are provincial sites that should not be missed – Guilin for the red hat-wearing Chinese tour groups and Yangshuo for Western backpackers – Longji Titian is an ideal place for those who cherish rural tranquility and solitude.

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What kind of plants can i put in a bearded dragon’s cage or what site can i find them on?

Thursday, July 29th, 2010

Question by Jesse G: What kind of plants can i put in a bearded dragon’s cage or what site can i find them on?

Im gettin one near christmas or in a week or two but watever i just can not wait till that time comes cause i have an albino leopard gecko and a dog and my mom can not refuse telling me i cant get a bearded dragon for christmas so ill tell yall when i get him and got any names for one?

Best answer:

Answer by KimbeeJ
Real plants are not recommended…not because there are no safe plants for them to eat, but rather it won’t take long for a beardie to totally demolish any plant in the tank. You are better off keeping the tank simple and easy to clean. Here are some of my tips for care:

Bearded Dragons

Beardies should have at least a 40 gallon breeder tank. Breeder tanks are wider rather than being tall. This allows for more floor space. The larger the tank, the better for your beardie. Mine is in a 75 gallon.

Do not use sand or other loose substrate on the bottom of the tank. The risk of intestinal impaction is very real and very common. Also, loose substrate allows for the quick growth of bacteria and harbors parasites. It is difficult to clean well and usually smells before long. Good choices for substrate are non-adhesive shelf liner, which is rubbery, cheap, easy to clean, and looks great. This is what I use in my lizard tanks. Other choices include reptile carpet and ceramic tile cut-to-fit. Sand is NOT natural! In the wild beardies are not forced to live, eat, and poop all in a confined small space.

You must have a heat lamp and a way to regulate temperatures. The easiest way to provide this is to use a reflector dome with a regular household light bulb. You can change the wattage to increase or decrease heat as needed. Plug the heat lamp into a thermostat (they sell these for reptile lamps) or a dimmer switch. This way the temp can be carefully regulated. Baby beardies need 105F and adults 100F. Use a digital probe thermometer to measure the basking temp. These are sold as indoor/outdoor thermometers in most garden departments. Set it to “outdoor” and place the probe on the basking platform. You cannot use stick on or dial thermometers, as these only measure air temps and not basking temps. They can be off by more than 20F! If the temps are too cold or too hot, you’ll end up with a sick and stressed dragon. Place the heat bulb over one end of the tank so the other end can be the cool end. The beardie can self-regulate his temperature this way by moving from one end to the other. Most beardies spend a good part of their days basking. A basking platform can either be anything the beardie can climb onto to bask. I prefer the artificial logs or bridges, as they are easy to clean.

Beardies must have a UVB bulb! These look like fluorescent bulbs that fit into fixtures made for them. The larger the better. These bulbs must be within 12 inches of the basking spot to be effective. Both heat and UVB bulbs should be on for 12 hours a day. It is best to use timers to accomplish this as they allow for the creation of a natural day/night cycle. Good UVB bulbs are Repti-sun 10.0 or Repti-glo 8.0. These bulbs should be changed every 6 months as they lose potency long before the light gives out.

Feeding a variety of insects is always best. In the wild they will eat up to 50 different types of insects. Good choices include crickets, superworms, phoenix worms, silkworms, hornworms and occasionally wax worms (high in fat). Avoid mealworms as they are too high in chitin (outer shell) and can cause impactions. All insects must be properly “gutloaded” before being used as food. This means providing correct food and water or moisture for them. All insects fed must be no larger than the space between the beardies eyes. If the prey is too large, this can lead to impaction and possible paralysis!

Salads must also be provided. Several greens and vegies should be in each salad. For a complete list of safe recommended vegies, see the Beautiful Dragons website below under the “Nutrition” link.

Provide your beardie with a small bowl of water. Do not use a large bowl as this will raise the humidity too high in the tank, which can lead to upper respiratory problems.

Beardies benefit from bathing and soaking. This not only helps with shedding, it is a good way to keep him hydrated. Simply use a large Rubbermaid container. Fill it to beardie shoulder height with warm water and place the beardie in it. Some beardies love water and others never learn to enjoy a bath. Let him soak for 10-15 minutes. Baby beardies can be soaked 3 times a week (they dehydrate much more quickly) and adults every 1-2 weeks. Daily misting with a squirt bottle is also beneficial.

Beardies should have a stool sample checked by an experienced reptile vet twice a year. They can carry a lot of parasites which can cause loss of appetite, diarrhea, and illness. Some of these parasites, such as coccidia, can never be totally eliminated. Under stress their numbers can rise and cause problems. Your vet can advise you when treatment is needed.

For more info on care, health and feeding, please check out my favorite sites:

http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/home.html

http://www.bio.miami.edu/ktosney/file/BD.html

http://www.beardeddragon.org/

http://www.bearded-dragons.com/tips/

Add your own answer in the comments!

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Thursday, July 29th, 2010

Eight Ways to Fail on Dragon’s Den

People who fail to get money in the BBC’s Dragons’ Den programme are teaching prospective entrepreneurs how to test if their own ideas are good, according to an on-line business expert.

Guy Kingston, whose Mind Your Own Business video and audio podcasts on the internet are viewed by entrepreneurs all over the world, said there are just eight reasons why people fail when they are on Dragon’s Den.

“Everyone tunes in for the ritual humiliation of the poor fools who go on the programme but it isn’t a bad question to ask yourself: “If I were an idiot and took this to the Dragons what would be their pretext to humiliate me?”

He said the eight mistakes made by those in the Den are:

Failure to say clearly, concisely and at the start of the presentation what the product or service is

Failure to say who will buy it and why

Failure to say how customers will be contacted and persuaded to buy;

Failure to research what is similar in the market and why one’s own product is better

Failure to master the basic figures, especially turnover, total cost, profits, unit price, unit cost and margin, budget main cost headings for three years, sales forecasts and total valuation of the company and return on investment

Failure to secure solid intellectual property rights, such as patents or exclusive distribution agreements

Insulting the Dragons with crude sales techniques

Talking too much

 

Guy Kingston made his fortune creating one of the first private businesses in post-communist Russia and now passes on his experience on www.myobpod.com in podcasts. The first video podcast was launched as an antidote to Dragons’ Den.

He said: “Not everyone needs venture capital so Dragons’ Den only gives a one-eyed view of business. But the eight reasons for failure are also eight reasons that people fail in the real world. People should identify the weakness in their idea and address them ruthlessly.”

How do you lower the humidity in a bearded dragon’s cage?

Sunday, July 25th, 2010

Question by proud nerd: How do you lower the humidity in a bearded dragon’s cage?

Lately, my bearded dragon’s humidity level has been around 30% – it’s supposed to be 10-20%. The temperature and everything else is fine, but I’ve been told they can get a fungus or something if the humidity is high. I’ve done research on this, and everything I’ve read says what it should be, but not how to get it there. Any ideas? thanks!
The humidity in the house is around 40%. It’s lower in his cage, but not as low as it’s supposed to be. It’s actually an aquarium with an aluminum screen top, if that helps.

Best answer:

Answer by Doctrine365
30% RH is pretty low for a house. People cannot live comfortably at 10-20% RH, so you’re going to have to decide who’s comfort is most important. If your RH were 10-20% in your home, you would get static shocks all the time and your house would have problems, too. Normal humidity for a house is 45-50% in the summer, 30-35% in the winter.

What do you think? Answer below!

Dragon’s World: A Fantasy Made Real

Sunday, July 11th, 2010

Dragon’s World: A Fantasy Made Real

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Rating: (out of 44 reviews)

List Price: $ 14.94

Price: $ 4.12