Posts Tagged ‘bearded’

Can an adult bearded dragon be kept in this cage measurement?

Friday, July 30th, 2010

Question by Gavin: Can an adult bearded dragon be kept in this cage measurement?

Can an adult bearded dragon be kept in a 4x1x2 cage? Thanks to all for the help.
what is the minimum size requirement?
what kind of lizard(s) can i keep in this kind of cage then?

Best answer:

Answer by Joker
Never!!! that animal cruelty but its not if u didnt know but no not that small the need space to run and have fun in i have a male and female so i know.

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Bearded Dragons Cage – Controlling the Temperature

Friday, July 30th, 2010

Bearded Dragons Cage – Controlling the Temperature

Beardies require a temperature gradient in their enclosures because they can’t regulate their body temperatures like. They have to thermo regulate, which means that they have to move between areas of differing temperatures in order to regulate their internal temperature. To produce heat and a basking spot in your enclosure, you can use either a ceramic heat emitter, a reptile basking light (red, blue or white) or just a plain old household light bulb.

The best fixture for any of these choices is a porcelain

dome light fixture. This type of fixture is a must with a ceramic heat emitter due to the amount of heat they produce. The temperature for this basking spot you created should be around 110oF for juveniles and can be around 95oF for adults.

Your Beardie will also need an area to cool down if he gets too warm. At the opposite end of the tank, you should try to keep the temp around 75-85oF. A few degrees within this temperature are just fine. Night time temps shouldn’t be allowed to drop below 60oF, whereas 70-75oF is more comfortable for them. Don’t guess on temps – you could cook or freeze your Beardie! Use a good thermometer, one on the cool side and another near the basking site.

A thermometer on the hot part and another on the cool part of the enclosure will make sure that your temps are in the range they should be in. Do not use hot rocks as they are potentially dangerous! Dragons don’t sense heat well with their tummies, and can be lethally scorched without realizing.

A good heat source for night time is a ceramic heating element (CHE). CHE’s are non-light emitting heating units. They get very hot but disperse heat over a very narrow (15″ in diameter) and shallow area. The range for a 60 watt CHE is 8″ down, the range for a 100 watt CHE is 10″ down, the range for a 150 watt CHE is 12″ down, and the range for 250 watts is 14″ down.

CHE’s are not effective in heating large enclosures and a rheostat or dimmer switch may be used for small enclosures so it doesn’t get too hot. It is very important that CHE’s only be used in porcelain/ceramic light sockets as the amount of heat that they produce is enough to melt regular plastic light sockets.

Florian Ross developed comprehensive guides to help people succeed with their bearded dragon pet. Find out more tips about raising a Bearded Dragon and how to have your bearded dragon lizard live two times longer with his popular free ecourse .


Would you like to get in on his free Newsletter? Visit www.pets-lovers.com to get started today!

More Dragon Articles

What reptile supplements are best for an iguana and a bearded dragon?

Friday, July 30th, 2010

Question by wollam43: What reptile supplements are best for an iguana and a bearded dragon?

Can I use the same preparation for both? What brand(s) are the best? How often should they get calcium and how often a multi-vitamin/mineral dust? They eat fresh or frozen vegetables rather than processed food and the dragon gets assorted bugs. Each has a sunlight bulb: what UVB level is best for each?

Best answer:

Answer by TessaAngel
Bearded Dragons need both animal proteins and vegetable matter!!! Young bearded dragon’s diet is about 80% animal proteins and 20% vegetable matter. As they get older, the ratio changes to about 80%-90% vegetable matter and 10-20% animal proteins.
Animal protein sources are: Crickets, superworms, silkworms, roaches, hornworms, waxworms. Waxworms are considered candy to a BD so only feed on occasion in a small amount(2-3 worms).
It is best to give them their veggies before insects so they will actually eat them. Green Veggies are collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion greens. you can also give green beans, butternut squash, acorn squash(other winter squashes are also acceptable) yams, sweet potato.
Several items in animal and veggies need to be properly prepared depending on item or age of the bearded dragon so check with people at the pet store, they can tell you.

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Expert Tips on Breeding Bearded Dragons

Friday, July 30th, 2010

Expert Tips on Breeding Bearded Dragons

Breeding bearded dragons requires more than putting a male and female together.  If you’re trying to breed these lizards, there are a few things you need to know beforehand.  This article will give you a few tips.

Age

It’s a mistake to breed beardies at a young age.  Younger dragons have an increased risk of egg binding as well as other health problems.  Females bred at too early of an age usually have a shorter lifespan.  It’s best to wait until they’re at least 18 months old.

Behavior

When ready to breed, the male’s beard will darken.  He will try to get the female to notice him by bobbing his head and stomping his feet.  Females will slowly bob their head in return and wave their arms.  The male often gets quite violent when mating as he will bite at the female’s neck to steady his position.

Lay Area

When your dragons start displaying their mating behavior, it’s important that you setup a lay area for the eggs.  If the female can’t find a proper area to lay her eggs, she may become egg-bound.  The area should be large and filled with moist soil and sand.

Eggs

It generally takes anywhere between four and six weeks for the female to lay her eggs.  You should be aware that the eggs won’t hatch on their own if you leave them there.  Instead, you need to dig them up very gently, making sure you don’t turn them upside down.

Females tend to lay some infertile eggs in their first clutch.  They will be yellow when held up to a candle.  Also, they will have a gelatin-like feel to them.  On the other hand, fertile eggs feel more like leather.  They will appear pink when candled.  You should also be able to see a developing, round embryo inside.

Incubation

You should setup your incubator around the same time you construct the lay area to ensure it’s ready.  The temperature should be between 82 and 84 degrees Fahrenheit.  There should also be plenty of humidity.  The eggs should hatch in about two months.

Looking for even more bearded dragon info? Then make sure you come by bearded-dragon-care.net today! Start learning everything you need to know about caring for dragons.

Q&A: How big should a tank be for a baby bearded dragon? How do I reduce the humidity level in the tank?

Friday, July 30th, 2010

Question by avrianballin45: How big should a tank be for a baby bearded dragon? How do I reduce the humidity level in the tank?

I need help setting up my tank this is my 1st time with a bearded dragon and i want to take care of it the best way? What should the humidity level be and the temperature and any other information would be greatly appreciated!

Best answer:

Answer by darkcirca
The smallest tank for a hatchling/juvenile (under 8″) is a 20 gallon long, but personally I’d go with a 40 gallon breeder. Anything smaller and the temperatures cannot be regulated.

I’d suggest researching your animal, as the more research you do the more you learn.

Here is an excellent careguide on bearded dragons:

http://www.thereptilefile.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bearded_Dragon

I would read through that, as it contains all the answers to your questions.

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Bearded Dragons Shedding – is Skin Exfoliation Something Wrong?

Friday, July 30th, 2010

Bearded Dragons Shedding – is Skin Exfoliation Something Wrong?

A beardie sheds its skin regularly. In order for this to happen, he requires the correct conditions. In captivity these conditions are aided by a basking lamp and warm environment. Together with exfoliation would be the sun lamp. As I mentioned, dragons love to bask in the sun. To create this environment, we give them a basking lamp under which they sit for hours. (Don’t forget natural sun is very important for him – being a desert creature, he needs large amounts of Vitamin D). The skin comes off in large patches. Don’t help them to pull it off–you can damage the new skin underneath. Letting them soak in shallow warm (98 deg) water or misting them helps shedding.

Exfoliating dragon

Going into shed is not a real fun thing for beardies. Most get rather cranky during this time, with some becoming hissy or snappy, objecting to being held or touched. The best thing to do is to respect their ill-feeling as much as possible. Some beardies will greatly reduce their food intake during a shed, others stop eating altogether until after they have shed. Offer a nice warm bath to help keep the skin moist and offer fluids for beardies that are off food.

Problems during Shedding

A problem shed is a shed that isn’t happening like a normal, healthy shed should. Adult beardies normally shed in pieces, a problem shed would be where it is taking too long, or where skin is retained in problem areas, such as around toes, spikes, and tails. A problem shed is a sign of an even greater, underlying problem. When a problem shed occurs, or one that is too slow to start or finish, you need to figure out why it is happening and correct the problem.

- First, analyze the environment, diet, etc. Are their any signs of pain and discomfort?

- Correct the problem (adjust heat, lighting, photoperiods, diet, etc.).

- If the beardie has started shedding, but not properly completed a shed, you can help it along. Soak them in a tub of warm water (95-99 degrees F) for 10-15 minutes, then begin gently rubbing their skin. Make sure the skin is removed from their toes, spikes, and tails.

- If there is still retained shed in these problem areas, wrap the wet beardie in a warm damp towel, then wrap that in a dry towel. Sit down with it for 5 minutes or so, then expose a small area of the crest, or a foot, and begin to gently work at the retained skin.

- If there are several layers or one very resistant layer, rub some mineral oil into the area while the beardie is still wet from the bath. This will help lock the moisture from the bath into that area. Do this for a couple of days (bath followed by the mineral oil worked into the skin); this should get enough water wicked up between the layers of skin to make them very easy to remove.

You might wonder as to where all the shedded skin has gone. Some beardies will occasionally eat some of their shed. This is not a problem as long as the beardie is maintained in a clean environment.

Florian Ross developed comprehensive guides to help people succeed with their bearded dragon pet. Find out more tips about raising a Bearded Dragon and how to have your bearded dragon lizard live two times longer with his popular free ecourse .


Would you like to get in on his free Newsletter? Visit www.pets-lovers.com to get started today!

What do I need to know before purchasing a bearded dragon?

Friday, July 30th, 2010

Question by : What do I need to know before purchasing a bearded dragon?

I want to get a medium-sized one. Would a 45 gallon tank be large enough? I found a leash for the bearded dragon. Can I take it for an outdoor walk? thank you!
Well, the leash is actually on petsmart’s website, under reptiles. i really don’t know what it’s for if it’s not for taking the lizard for a walk.

Best answer:

Answer by 4TehLolZ
Dragons aren’t real LOLWUT

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Q&A: What is the correct feeding regime for an adult bearded dragon?

Friday, July 30th, 2010

Question by allonyoav: What is the correct feeding regime for an adult bearded dragon?

I got an Adult bearded dragon recently and currently I am feeding it ten large. Crickets a day together with pellets. How much fresh greens do I need to add to the mix?

Best answer:

Answer by Frank
Regime is not that anathema to be correct. Regime is much more poxy

What do you think? Answer below!

What kind of sand is the healthiest and safest for my pet bearded dragon?

Friday, July 30th, 2010

Question by Extravaduireanater: What kind of sand is the healthiest and safest for my pet bearded dragon?

I’m thinking of switching my pet bearded dragon’s cage from carpet to sand. I have heard many things about different kinds of sand, but I’m not sure which one is right. My pet bearded dragon is about 10 and 3/4ths inches long.

Best answer:

Answer by Mackenzie
You can use the corporate-made Repti-Sand or Calci-Sand. Their labels claim that the sand is 100% digestible, which removes the cause of impaction. However, there have been reports of reptiles becoming impacted with 100% digestible, corporate-made sand. The downside of Repti-Sand or Calci-Sand is these types of sand are expensive, especially if you are going to use them for the large enclosures that bearded dragons need. Another type of sand I would advise against is silica sand. Basically, silica sand is the same thing as broken glass. After all, sand can be made into glass. Would you want your bearded dragon to ingest broken glass? Perhaps, the most economical sand is play sand. Play sand can be bought in large 50 lb. bags that cost no more than -9 dollars. This is also economical because you can buy a few large bags for your bearded dragon enclosure, and still pay less than using corporate made digestible sand. With play sand, there is always the possibility for impaction, especially in young bearded dragons, so it is best to keep younger bearded dragons on paper.

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Can a bearded dragon share a cage with a ball python?

Friday, July 30th, 2010

Question by Kyle: Can a bearded dragon share a cage with a ball python?

I have 3 ball pythons, and I would like to get a bearded dragon. Has anybody ever tried to house these together? I have two of my pythons in one cage, and the baby is by himself. I have tried to search fo this with no luck. Thank you for any help you can offer.
Thank you! I guessed as much, but I figured it couldn’t hurt to ask. Anyway, I appreciate the fact that ya’ll responded so quickly! I’ll keep ‘em separated.

Best answer:

Answer by johnny
It is not going to work. Ball pythons are tropical and beardies are a dry arid species lizard. Reptiles are best housed by themselves. A ball python could make a meal of a bearded dragon if it is hungry enough.

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