3 Responses to “How much to get a bearded dragon and full habbitat?”

1. Blaaah Says:
   July 29th, 2010 at 7:40 am

   Yes $70 is about the going rate for a small Bearded Dragon. It will take a little searching but you will be able to find a good deal for a tank. Look in your newspaper, or craigslist.com you will be able to find a 55 gallon tank for under $80. Dont get a tank any smaller than 55 gallons because it wont be enough room for him to be happy. You might be able to find a lamp with the tank, but if not you can get one for about $10 at home depot and just buy a bulb at a pet store. That will be the cheapest way to get everything. These are great websites on care http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bearded_Dragon
   http://www.exclusivedragons.com/Care_Info_Library.html
   Good Luck

2. sigruin Says:
   July 29th, 2010 at 8:01 am

   So you want a Bearded Dragon? How much do you know about them? Do you know what it takes to keep one of these little guys happy and healthy?
   Our objective to this care sheet is that you be as prepared as possible when you get your new baby. We take painstaking care of our babies from the beginning
   of their lives and expect them to go to a good home and caring family, where
   they will receive the same care for the rest of their lives. Does any living thing deserve anything less?
   Animals are not toys to be thrown away when you get tired of them. They are a responsibility for many years to come. Bearded dragons can live up to 12+ years.
   Your Baby Beardie:
   Your baby should eat approximately 20 crickets twice per day, in the afternoon and evening and a handful of veggies each morning, but you need to offer as many/much as he is interested in eating. Make sure there are NO crickets left in his cage when he stops eating, they need to be removed because they can chew on your beardie while he is sleeping, causing infections, missing limbs, or expensive vet bills for amputations. Lighting schedules should be 12 hours on,
   12 hours off. They need to have nighttime, just like we do, with all lights and
   heat turned off for at least 8-10 hours each day, as long as your house temperature doesn’t go below 60 degrees. You should have a shallow water
   dish available always, and most of the babies like to lounge in their water, so don’t make it too deep. When your beardie is older, you can take him
   everywhere with you, but always be prepared, because just like any animal,
   they can get scared and run away when you least expect it. We recommend
   buying a small pet carrier and keeping them in it while traveling.
   Enclosure:
   For a baby beardie you will be able to get by with a 20 gallon tank, but to save money in the long run, We recommend purchasing or building a tank that will fit for his entire life.
   Once your baby reaches 12 inches it will be time to get him a bigger tank. A
   40 gallon breeder (36x18x18) is the minimum recommended, however, the
   bigger the tank, the better.
   Bearded dragons are semiariborial not tree climbers, therefore they need the floor space.
   They do like to sit on fat branches and flat rocks, so think Australia, and
   decorate accordingly. It is hard packed red clay, not sand, and a very arid/dry environment. Offer a place to bask, a few things to climb on, and somewhere
   that they can hide, like a cave or half log. Try not to fill your cage with furniture, they like to have lots of empty floor space too, so they can move freely.
   Lighting and Temperatures:
   It is very important that you choose the correct equipment to measure your temperatures. You should buy either a digital thermometer with a probe or an infrared temperature gun. The stick-on thermometers that they sell at pet store can be as much as 20 degrees wrong, and very unreliable, so it is in your beardie’s best interests that you stay away from these.
   There are three temperatures you will need to measure, a basking spot, a warm end of the
   tank, and a cool end.
   For a baby:
   The basking temperature is the surface temperature of what your beardie sits on, in the place that is closest to the heat lamp, where your beardie will sit to get warm. This spot needs to be between 110 and 115 degrees.

   The hot end of your tank is the air temperature around the basking spot. This should be between 90 and 100 degrees.

   The cool end of your tank is where your beardie will go when he wants to cool down. This should be between 80 and 85 degrees.
   For an adult:
   The hot end and cool end of your tank should be the same as for a baby, but
   you will need to lower your basking spot temperature to between 95 and 100 degrees.
   To achieve the correct temperatures you can use regular old household light bulbs. They are inexpensive, so it will make it easier for you to experiment so you can get the correct temperature. I usually start with a 75 watt bulb, and
   go up or down from there. Just keep in mind that beardies LOVE bright
   sunlight, so a dull, yellowish lighting will make your beardie lethargic and depressed. The brighter you can make the cage, the better your beardie will
   feel and act.
   Your new beardie will also need a UVB light. This is VERY important for
   your new little guy, or old seasoned guy to metabolize and absorb the calcium
   he or she is going to be ingesting, by producing vitamin D3. Without a UVB
   light, your new pet can develop metabolic bone disease, which will twist and warp their body, paralyze them, make them have seizures, and then die from
   lack of vitamin absorption. This is an extremely painful and horrible death for them, so we would like to stress the importance of having the correct UVB
   Light, and that you change it EVERY six to eight months. We also recommend always having a spare bulb, for accidents and emergencies. It is vital that your beardie never go more than day without a UVB. If your UVB

3. Matthew N Says:
   July 29th, 2010 at 8:54 am

   About 300